CAROLINE LEBAR -
SVP OF IMAGE AND COMMUNICATIONS
Few people can say they had a genuinely close relationship with Karl Lagerfeld — let alone one that lasted for over 35 years. Caroline first began working with Karl in 1985, and in the collaboration that ensued they developed a deep level of trust both professionally and personally. Today, as the Maison’s SVP of Image & Communications, Caroline shares her deep knowledge of fashion, design, brand and pop culture, as seen through a KARL lens.
“I observed him, I spent my life with him, and I always thought it was cool to see things from his perspective,” Caroline recalls of her career spent with Karl. “What really impressed me was how strong he was; he made everything look easy!”
When did you first meet Karl?
It was in 1985, and I was on my third day of an internship at the Maison KARL LAGERFELD. It was at our first office at 144 Champs-Elysees, and I bumped into Karl walking in the corridor. He was extremely polite and said “hello,” and I was so shy that I couldn’t even answer! Looking back now, it was so silly. He was in his 40s then and not even famous yet, but the reason I was shy was that he already had an aura that was super strong and impressive. He thought I was being rude by not responding, so it took a while for him to warm to me, but six months later things got better. It was a valuable lesson for me: I learned that it’s okay to be shy, but Karl shouldn’t see it.
Where did you go from there?
I slowly became less nervous, and things got better. I was always smiling and saying “yes” to Karl, but he spoke so fast, sometimes it was hard to know what he was saying. One time he caught me saying “yes” when I actually didn’t understand, and he had a laugh. Being able to laugh at myself in front of him made a big difference.
Was your job at KARL LAGERFELD your first job?
I started working when I was 17 years-old, as a booker at a modelling agency. Two years later, when I was 19, I got the job with Karl. I never finished high school and learned everything on the job, by myself. I’m proud that I earned Karl’s trust — that means more to me than impressing anyone with a PhD.
It sounds like the early days of KARL LAGERFELD were quite unique and special?
Right from the beginning, the team was like a family. We were really a start-up back then, with only 15 people in the company. To this day, we still have a WhatsApp group of the original team from 144 Champs-Elysees, which reflects what a special bond we made.
When did you first meet Karl?
It was in 1985, and I was on my third day of an internship at the Maison KARL LAGERFELD. It was at our first office at 144 Champs-Elysees, and I bumped into Karl walking in the corridor. He was extremely polite and said “hello,” and I was so shy that I couldn’t even answer! Looking back now, it was so silly. He was in his 40s then and not even famous yet, but the reason I was shy was that he already had an aura that was super strong and impressive. He thought I was being rude by not responding, so it took a while for him to warm to me, but six months later things got better. It was a valuable lesson for me: I learned that it’s okay to be shy, but Karl shouldn’t see it.
Where did you go from there?
I slowly became less nervous, and things got better. I was always smiling and saying “yes” to Karl, but he spoke so fast, sometimes it was hard to know what he was saying. One time he caught me saying “yes” when I actually didn’t understand, and he had a laugh. Being able to laugh at myself in front of him made a big difference.
Was your job at KARL LAGERFELD your first job?
I started working when I was 17 years-old, as a booker at a modelling agency. Two years later, when I was 19, I got the job with Karl. I never finished high school and learned everything on the job, by myself. I’m proud that I earned Karl’s trust — that means more to me than impressing anyone with a PhD.
It sounds like the early days of KARL LAGERFELD were quite unique and special?
Right from the beginning, the team was like a family. We were really a start-up back then, with only 15 people in the company. To this day, we still have a WhatsApp group of the original team from 144 Champs-Elysees, which reflects what a special bond we made.
There’s a rumour that you used to model for Karl…
Karl once asked me about what I did before I started working for him, so I told him about the modelling agency job. When he found out, I started helping him with castings, bookings and negotiations with agencies, in addition to my role as a PR and showroom manager.
One day, out of the blue, I got a call from someone at Chanel asking me to come to their office the next day. I asked, “What for?” and he said, “To walk in the show.” I got there and I was like a poor little bird, lost in the middle of the models. I was normally on the other end, and suddenly I was dressed for the show. I had navy blue leather gloves on, and I was so nervous, when I took them off my hands were blue from the sweat! Luckily, Ines de la Fressange took me by the hand, told me how to walk, told me where to stop and how long to stand. After that, I modelled for Karl for eight years — I did all his runway shows!
In the 34 years you spent working closely with Karl, what is the best lesson you learned from him?
It’s more of a behaviour than a lesson, but Karl made the most of every moment he shared with people. Maybe that meant he wouldn’t be on time for his next appointment, but he always gave 100% concentration to the person he was with in that moment.
How did it this turn into two cookbooks (“Une tarte pour dimanche” / “A tart for Sunday” and “Une tarte pour Samedi” / “A tart for Saturday”)?
I got a message from Marabout/Hachette, one of the biggest publishers in France, and at first I thought it was a joke! I said, “OK, if it his is true then stop by my office for a meeting.” I couldn’t believe it when they showed up! The first book was translated into Spanish, Italian, German and Dutch. We later did a second book of both savory and sweet tarts.
What is your favorite flavor of tart?
I like all fruit, especially berries. I love almond cream!
What do you enjoy about baking tarts?
It’s all about creative expression. I go early in the morning to the fruit market and when I’m in front of the display I don’t see fruit — I see colors and shapes.
Your tarts are like a piece of art! Do you ever find it difficult to slice (and eat) them?
In fact, I don’t eat the tarts so much! My real pleasure is to create something graphic with a pattern and colors. I take a photo, then it goes on the table, and my husband will test the taste. I don’t think if I am “breaking” the beauty of the tart; my concern is that, after all the effort, that it tastes good; my best reward is a smile on a face!
What’s your favorite thing about living in Paris?
The freedom, the culture, and the beauty of the city.
How do you describe your style?
Not masculine but androgynous. Sleek. Clean. A bit of fantasy together with something strict.
What’s your favorite travel destination and why?
Cap Ferret, near Bordeaux. There’s 40km of beach, with no buildings and big sand dunes. I’ve been going there every summer for 29 years. I’m very loyal!
What advice do you have for someone looking to start a career in fashion?
When starting any job — not just in fashion — be patient, open-minded and ready to do anything. There are a lot of people that are willing to do the job; what will make the difference is your enthusiasm, good will, and professionalism. You need to be ready to work hard to achieve your goals!
What’s your favorite thing about working at KARL LAGERFELD?
TEAM KARL! The people. Everyone is interesting, honest, and true to themselves.
There’s a rumour that you used to model for Karl…
Karl once asked me about what I did before I started working for him, so I told him about the modelling agency job. When he found out, I started helping him with castings, bookings and negotiations with agencies, in addition to my role as a PR and showroom manager.
One day, out of the blue, I got a call from someone at Chanel asking me to come to their office the next day. I asked, “What for?” and he said, “To walk in the show.” I got there and I was like a poor little bird, lost in the middle of the models. I was normally on the other end, and suddenly I was dressed for the show. I had navy blue leather gloves on, and I was so nervous, when I took them off my hands were blue from the sweat! Luckily, Ines de la Fressange took me by the hand, told me how to walk, told me where to stop and how long to stand. After that, I modelled for Karl for eight years — I did all his runway shows!
In the 34 years you spent working closely with Karl, what is the best lesson you learned from him?
It’s more of a behaviour than a lesson, but Karl made the most of every moment he shared with people. Maybe that meant he wouldn’t be on time for his next appointment, but he always gave 100% concentration to the person he was with in that moment.
How did he handle the stress and responsibility of his roles?
I observed him, I spent my life with him, and I always thought it was cool to see things from his perspective. What really impressed me was how strong he was; he made everything look easy. Karl never complained, never said it was difficult, never said he lacked inspiration — and even if that ever happened, I would have never known.
What’s the most memorable project you worked on together?
The H&M collaboration in 2004. The difference from one day to the next was incredible. I was in a store with a journalist for the reveal of the collection to public and it was a huge success — people were literally fighting for the collection. We didn’t expect this indescribable craziness; I remember I called Karl to inform him, and he was also really shocked.
The day after, he needed to go to the 7L (his bookstore in Paris), and people were waiting for him outside of his house! That was the beginning of Karl being not just a fashion designer, but a rockstar. He couldn’t go out by himself anymore. People were really shouting “Karl!” all over the world. The power of H&M was very international.
The Karl we saw in public was indeed a rockstar, but also mysterious. Did he play that role behind closed doors?
The public Karl had an armour — he had to protect himself. But Karl was actually a very open person, and he did a lot to make people feel at ease. He was incredibly funny, polite, kind and caring. He was also extremely loyal; you’d have to earn his trust and could only do that with time, but once you did, something would change in your relationship with him.
What’s something that people would be surprised to know about Karl?
He was incredibly generous — not only with his time but also with acts of kindness like opening the door for you. If you had an interesting conversation about something, a week later you’d receive a gift of all the books written on that topic!
You’ve spent your entire career working for this Maison. What makes you stay?
The family and the trust I’m given. I have an expertise that I’ve built through my career here, but I’m still surprised and happy to see the trust around me. And now that Karl is gone, I feel responsible — I want to share as much as possible with our team and with people. I try my best to tell stories, explain how Karl was, and what it was like with him. Karl was a very hard worker and he made the best of everything — I want to help keep that alive.
Karl had a surprising habit when it came to music…
He loved to listen to music extremely loud! Sometimes I’d be trying to talk to him on the phone and beg, “Karl, please, lower the volume so you can hear me!” It could be opera, rap, ‘70s hits, techno or Argentinian tango. He liked Pharrell, Drake and will.i.am! He was so varied in his taste.
Your style can be androgynous and sometimes reminiscent of Karl himself. What is the best advice you received or learned from him, when it comes to style?
I didn’t take advice from him — I took his clothes! I think my androgynous look matched a lot with Karl’s style. Of course I wanted to please him with my appearance, but I always stayed true to my style and my own look. And if Karl liked your look he would tell you, which was a very kind thing for him to do, because he easily could have kept that for himself.
How has the brand evolved since its inception?
The biggest evolution was who we reached with our collections. When I came in 1985, the brand was true luxury on the catwalk. But then after the collaboration with H&M, Karl made the decision he didn’t want to be a catwalk brand anymore. He loved the idea of making luxury fashion accessible to everyone. And now, many years later and even though Karl has passed away, there’s still such an amazing team spirit. I feel extremely happy and proud to still be in the company!
The theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2023 Costume Institute Exhibition and Gala was Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty. What did it mean to you that Karl was the theme of the 2023 Met Gala and Exhibition?
There are not many designers who have been honored in this way — only around 10 in total since the Met Gala started having a theme in the 1970s. It was a milestone moment for the brand, which I not only saw as a good opportunity for an introspection, but a way of sharing with our team and audience the evolution of the brand since its beginning in 1984. How incredible it has been to dive into our archives, see looks that I once wore on the catwalk in the ‘80s, and moreover see the team being so proud of our precious heritage. But the most remarkable aspect of this adventure was to witness how Andrew Bolton took all of this history and heritage — “sleeping beauties,” if you will — and brought it to life.
What was your most memorable moment of the Gala?
It was a moment of celebration and love for my greatest mentor, and walking the red carpet is something I could have never imagined. I was wearing an archive jacket that I love, and I wore it once when I was with Karl, so I felt very close to him.
Tell us more about the Costume Institute Exhibition…
The red carpet was an emotional moment, but even more meaningful for me was to see Karl through the eyes of Andrew Bolton, the curator of the exhibition. His amazing work captured the diverse, eclectic works that Karl achieved through his entire career, seamlessly merging years and brands — and it was a lot of work! It was equally as powerful to see the reactions of people who visited — their admiration, their celebration, and their curiosity. There was so much beauty in this exhibition and tribute, including the amazing scenography by Tadao Ando, the architect with whom Karl dreamed to build a house ... now, that's done!
It was announced that Academy Award-winning actor Jared Leto will play Karl in an upcoming movie — and you will be an Executive Producer. What are your thoughts on the movie?
We are in the early stages of the project so it’s too early to say, and of course whatever they choose to film is not up to me. But we are doing our best to support the project, share stories, and give them an impression of what our lives were like with Karl.
You’ve traveled the world with Karl. Where is your favorite place you visited together?
New York. I had the feeling we were practically living together there! At one point we were going there every five weeks or so, and we always stayed at the Mercer Hotel like one big family. We’d have breakfast together just like any colleagues would when they travel together! Traveling with Karl was always a pleasure, as we had the time to connect deeper — on work topics, but also personal things. It was entertaining and the atmosphere was amazing; I always enjoyed and appreciated those trips and moments we could share together.
Karl had a surprising habit when it came to music…
He loved to listen to music extremely loud! Sometimes I’d be trying to talk to him on the phone and beg, “Karl, please, lower the volume so you can hear me!” It could be opera, rap, ‘70s hits, techno or Argentinian tango. He liked Pharrell, Drake and will.i.am! He was so varied in his taste.
Your style can be androgynous and sometimes reminiscent of Karl himself. What is the best advice you received or learned from him, when it comes to style?
I didn’t take advice from him — I took his clothes! I think my androgynous look matched a lot with Karl’s style. Of course I wanted to please him with my appearance, but I always stayed true to my style and my own look. And if Karl liked your look he would tell you, which was a very kind thing for him to do, because he easily could have kept that for himself.
How has the brand evolved since its inception?
The biggest evolution was who we reached with our collections. When I came in 1985, the brand was true luxury on the catwalk. But then after the collaboration with H&M, Karl made the decision he didn’t want to be a catwalk brand anymore. He loved the idea of making luxury fashion accessible to everyone. And now, many years later and even though Karl has passed away, there’s still such an amazing team spirit. I feel extremely happy and proud to still be in the company!
The theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2023 Costume Institute Exhibition and Gala was Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty. What did it mean to you that Karl was the theme of the 2023 Met Gala and Exhibition?
There are not many designers who have been honored in this way — only around 10 in total since the Met Gala started having a theme in the 1970s. It was a milestone moment for the brand, which I not only saw as a good opportunity for an introspection, but a way of sharing with our team and audience the evolution of the brand since its beginning in 1984. How incredible it has been to dive into our archives, see looks that I once wore on the catwalk in the ‘80s, and moreover see the team being so proud of our precious heritage. But the most remarkable aspect of this adventure was to witness how Andrew Bolton took all of this history and heritage — “sleeping beauties,” if you will — and brought it to life.
What was your most memorable moment of the Gala?
It was a moment of celebration and love for my greatest mentor, and walking the red carpet is something I could have never imagined. I was wearing an archive jacket that I love, and I wore it once when I was with Karl, so I felt very close to him.
Tell us more about the Costume Institute Exhibition…
The red carpet was an emotional moment, but even more meaningful for me was to see Karl through the eyes of Andrew Bolton, the curator of the exhibition. His amazing work captured the diverse, eclectic works that Karl achieved through his entire career, seamlessly merging years and brands — and it was a lot of work! It was equally as powerful to see the reactions of people who visited — their admiration, their celebration, and their curiosity. There was so much beauty in this exhibition and tribute, including the amazing scenography by Tadao Ando, the architect with whom Karl dreamed to build a house ... now, that's done!
It was announced that Academy Award-winning actor Jared Leto will play Karl in an upcoming movie — and you will be an Executive Producer. What are your thoughts on the movie?
We are in the early stages of the project so it’s too early to say, and of course whatever they choose to film is not up to me. But we are doing our best to support the project, share stories, and give them an impression of what our lives were like with Karl.